What follows is Eggs’ comment and my response.

Eggs wrote: Yep, use a Gentle Leader, if you:

Enjoy using leverage to control your dog

Want to be physically strong enough to manipulate your dog, but not really teach him anything

Put something on your dog’s face that makes him feel as though he cannot see, bite, sniff, or bark

Live with the potential for incredible harm to your dog’s neck, head, and shoulders.

Gentle Leaders work through two principles: leverage and repression. They don’t TEACH anything - learning theory is based off of consequences, both good and bad. Gentle Leaders do not provide consequences; they provide enough torque in the handler’s arm to PHYSICALLY FORCE the dog into a specific position.

They are a tool for those who have been suckered in by marketing and the appearance of the thing. They are by no means “dog friendly.”

Recommending them is irresponsible and quite dog un-friendly

Signed,
A former Gentle Leader user who will NEVER go back.

Eggs - I’ll respectfully disagree with most of what you wrote. But before I go into why, I have some good news. Your passionate comment has prompted me to place a disclaimer at the head of the Gentle Leader post and I will be placing a similar disclaimer warning of risks with ALL dog training collars in front of all the other posts over the next few days. So we thank you for that because it’s simply a good idea. But as for your opinion on dog training collars…

First, anybody who uses any collar because they “enjoy using leverage to control” shouldn’t own a dog. People should buy collars for no other reasons than to keep their pets from running off and getting hurt and because the law requires them. And they should buy dog training collars strictly to train, not as manipulative tools to be used on every walk.

Second, stating they don’t “TEACH anything” qualifies as one of those “thanks for that, Captain Obvious” statements. Assume a dog pulls, prompting its owner to try to train it with a dog training collar. Use of this (and other collars) teaches it that there are negative consequences associated with pulling. It stops pulling. This opens it up to the opportunity to be rewarded for good behavior and for the training process to begin. Once the dog is doing the right thing it can be treated and rewarded for positive behavior and that behavior can be reinforced. If you don’t actually train the dog, it will begin pulling again the minute you put it back in a regular collar.

You are right in that the Gentle Leader collar doesn’t teach the dog anything, but then it isn’t the collar’s job to teach, is it? There isn’t a collar in the world that teaches a dog anything positive. All of them result in something the dog doesn’t want or doesn’t like. Teaching them proper behavior is the owner’s job. Training collars of all kinds are nothing more than tools to open up opportunities for the owner to train. Nothing more.

What I find ironic, though, is that in another comment you left you reveal that you are in favor of prong collars while you vehemently decry the Gentle Leader. Prong collars?! Now there’s a tool that leverages. Prong collars work strictly by causing pain (or at least discomfort). In other words, they leverage a dog’s inclination not to get hurt. And, if an inexperienced owner is using one and the dog runs to the end of the leash, they can also cause irreparable soft tissue damage to the throat, ligaments and tendons as well as disc and spinal damage. Calling somebody irresponsible for recommending a Gentle Leader while you champion prong collars just doesn’t make a whole lot of sense.

There are thousands who would tell you that people who use prong collars are masochists who thrill in hurting their dogs. They represent the pinnacle of reprehensible tools in the eyes of many (trainers and owners alike). I’m not one of them. In fact, though I find them personally distasteful with at LEAST the same level of passion you have for the Gentle Leader, I’ve actually taken the time to write about prong collars as training tools in an effort to provide readers with information about all available options without specifically recommending one or the other. But I hope I’m making a point about perspective. What you disdain, others laud. What you champion, others loath. And there’s simply no pleasing all of the people all of the time.

Now let’s discuss your assertion that Gentle Leaders “work through two principles: leverage and repression.” I’d like to suggest that you are absolutely right. You should NEVER use a Gentle Leader because it sounds like you’re so accustomed or inclined to using leverage with your prong collars that you were totally failing to use the Gentle Leader correctly. Within 3 minutes of wearing a Gentle Leader (in the house for a controlled training session), the two dogs I tried it out on would not pull (at least not to any degree I could feel on my end of the leash). There was no real leverage required as simply moving too far ahead on the lead would result in such a tiny tug on the dog’s muzzle that it immediately slowed down. The very weight of my arm (not the ample and shapely muscles in it) was sufficient to “leverage.” Egg, I have visions of you yanking your dog’s head back as you improperly tried to “leverage” it into doing what you wanted. I’ve said it a million times… it’s the owners who need training more than the dogs.

As for repression, yes, you’re absolutely right. Now show me a collar that doesn’t. Buckle collars repress by applying pressure to the dog’s throat. Likewise choke collars with the addition of some real pain. Likewise prong collars. And, to your point, Gentle Leaders repress a dog by turning its head in an undesired direction. Eggs, I will be thrilled if you would show me a collar that doesn’t, in some way, repress a dog’s preference for a certain action, result or behavior. They all do. The difference between us - you prefer one that does so through pain while I’d rather just annoy the dog into a state of compliance that allows time for training. Actually, I’d rather do neither but for the sake of debate let’s just say that, given no other options, I’d rather use a painless collar.

Regardless what collar you chose there are risks associated with improper use. Prong collars and choke collars cause tissue and spinal damage when used improperly. Gentle Leaders can likewise cause neck and shoulder damage if used improperly but at least the Gentle Leader comes with a training DVD in the packaging while prong collars just hang in the store without any instructions for any inexperienced owner to just pickup and misuse. Shock collars can cause irreparable confidence damage and, if an owner attaches the lead to the shock collar rather than an additional buckle collar, can even pierce the throat. I’ve yet to write a post about the safest of them all, the body harness (coming soon) but even that can rub and chafe painfully if not properly fitted. In other words, every collar made requires some education and common sense on the part of the owner/trainer. Absent that, they are all mental and physical torture devices to one extreme or another.

Now one final point…, of all the dog training collars I’ve tried, head harnesses like the Gentle Leader have one advantage over the others; the results are so quick (comparatively speaking) that the opportunity for damage is diminished simply because, used properly and with real training included, the dog will spend far less time in training before it can be switched to a regular collar. It’s the lack of patience on the parts of some dog owners that leads to the use of training collars in the first place. And, no offense, but it’s that same impatience, lack of time or unwillingness to learn how to train a dog properly that leads owners to opt for pain-inflicting alternatives like prong collars. If you are truly an advocate of decency and kindness to dogs (prong collars? really?) then I think you’d agree that the faster an animal is OUT of any training collar, the better.

In a perfect world, we wouldn’t need training collars at all. Absent that, all dog owners would take the time to learn alternate methods of training that don’t require any kind of training collar other than a standard buckle collar. But the world isn’t perfect and for every dog owner who has the patience to rely on PRT, there are a hundred who don’t. Far better the animal be in a collar that gets fast results without the intent of causing pain and allows real training to begin than one that takes longer and prolongs the opportunity for an accident to occur. The longer the dog is in any kind of training collar, the more opportunities it has to get injured.

As for me, my use of the Gentle Leader was experimental with a pair of aggressive and willful Australian Shepherds. After two days of training (independently), they were no longer trying to defend me from everything that moved or trying to get me to their chosen destination at warp speed. The collar didn’t teach them anything, you’re right. But it DID present me opportunities to teach them everything they needed to know to be well behaved pets on walks. They have never had to wear a Gentle Leader or any other kind of dog training collar since.

Of course, I could have trained them using any kind of dog training collar (as I’ve done with my other dogs) and even PRT alone but, you are right. I was taken in by the marketing and wanted to try this product out. Given the results, I’m glad I did but I also could have achieved the same results with your “friendly” solution, a prong collar. I opted against that, though. Why? Do you really need to ask?

In using a dog training collar of ANY kind, you are relying on negative reinforcement to condition your dog. Depending on the type of collar, your pup will experience discomfort, pain or an undesirable result. Positive reinforcement training, on the other hand, substitutes negative results for undesirable responses with strictly positive results for desired actions. Undesirable behavior goes unacknowledged.

Positive reinforcement training has been around longer than some trainers might have you think. Anybody who has ever trained their pet to sit or beg without use of anything other than treats and rewarded them when they succeeded has actually practiced PRT. Again, it’s the absence of negative consequences when the pet doesn’t perform or when it performs in an undesirable manner that distinguishes this from negative response training.

For proof that PRT works, ask yourself how a bunch of tiny human trainers have managed to condition 9 ton predatory killer whales to do all those neat tricks you see when you go to Sea World. The answer most certainly isn’t in punishing undesirable behavior. I double dare you to go spank a killer whale.

Now your next question might be, if positive reinforcement training is so successful, why are there still prong, shock and choke collars around? Why are Halti and Gentle Leader collars still sold? That’s a good question, and one I advise you keep in mind the next time you encounter a PRT advocate who criticizes “old school” trainers as uncaring and barbaric.

I, personally, am a huge proponent of positive reinforcement training. It works very well. But I’m not about to condemn those who use other methods because I’ve learnt my history well. Want me to elaborate? Ok, let me ask you this…, who was better off - your average American Plains Indian before the white man arrived or a modern day American with all our conveniences and technology?

In a college anthropology class many years ago I learnt that your average “primitive” cultures invested about 3 to 4 hours per day providing for them selves. Including hunting, gathering, preparing food, mending clothing, cleaning, doing everything and anything needed to survive for a week occupied about 3 to 4 hours of their day. The rest of their time was spent socializing, sharing stories, playing games, forming bonds and just living. Though I can’t remember the exact figure, I believe it was quoted at substantially more than double that for a modern human. My daily working hours, commute and housework make me inclined to think 4 times as much would be more accurate.

The lesson in that bit of trivia is that the newer, modern, current or in-thing isn’t necessarily the best thing. Nor is any concept absolute. It may seem that way, but remember only a few decades ago, those trainers felt their ways were the best. Now modern trainers think the same thing about their own methodology. In 30 or 50 years, some newly adopted technique will be better and what we consider current and modern may be thought of as barbaric or naive.

Dog training collars still exist. They are still sold. They are still used by owners and qualified dog trainers. There are simple reasons for that, not the very least of which is that no one technique is always the best solution for every situation, every person or every animal. While a positive-only advocate is telling you you’re cruel for using a shock collar which might have a negative impact on a dog’s confidence on one hand, they might be perfectly content to muzzle an aggressive dog on the other. A muzzled dog has the same potential for diminished self-confidence.

The merits of positive reinforcement training are many and we’ll come back to this topic often as well as discuss ways that you can incorporate PRT into hybrid training that also relies on dog training collars. A devoted PRT trainer might feel that defeats the purpose but I feel otherwise. The benefit of mixing PRT with the use of a dog training collar is that you gain many of the benefits of PRT while offsetting many of the negatives associated with some types of collars. At the same time, though, you retain control over high risk and high demand animals. An aggressive dog, for example, will benefit from the PRT element and you’ll still have control should there be an unexpected setback, relapse or trigger encountered you weren’t aware of.

As you read about different training tools and methods on this site, please remember that my objective is not to condemn or condone one methodology in favor of another. With the exception of blatantly cruel treatment (beating a dog for example) I will always try to remain neutral and give you both sides of the story to help you make an informed decision. I also recommend that you not allow your education to begin and end here. Seek qualified, professional input in addition to what you find here and always use common sense in making decisions about dog training collars. The simple truth is that it is WE the humans who need to be trained to understand our pets, their body language and their motivations far more than they need to be trained to sit and heel. Your training efforts with your dog shouldn’t begin until you’ve first trained yourself.

It got me thinking, though, that if non-dog owners could mistake the Gentle Leader my dog wore as a muzzle, new or inexperienced dog owners might make the same mistake. It’s important to note that head harnesses such as the Halti or Gentle Leader are not muzzles and will not prevent your dog from biting if it is so inclined.

While wearing a Gentle Leader, my dog is perfectly capable of barking, drinking water, carrying a stick or even a tennis ball. The device does not work by notably restricting the muzzle from opening, it simply passes over the muzzle to facility turning the dog’s head should he move beyond the limits of his lead. Please note, though, that a smaller dog shouldn’t be allowed to carry a tennis ball while wearing the gentle leader as it does restrict the range of muzzle opening slightly and may prevent your dog from spitting out the ball.

If you do have a highly aggressive dog with a known potential to try to bite, ensure you purchase an appropriate muzzle designed specifically with bite prevention in mind, not a dog training collar or head harness. The former will save you from a lawsuit. The latter will hopefully allow you to train your dog into a well-behaved, non-biting pal.

Folks, the debate will never end. Collars of this nature have been alternately condemned or praised depending on which side of the fence you might find yourself, but Cesar Millan’s use of such dog training collars will, I hope, give opponents pause. 

First, Cesar is a professional. This is what he does for a living and his methods are successful. I don’t doubt his clients would gladly attest to his effective use of both dog psychology AND training collars in successfully curing problem behavior. Victoria Stilwell of It’s Me or the Dog fame strikes me as one person who might cringe at the use of such training devices. Victoria relies heavily on canine psychology in her training. Her techniques are unquestionably sound and proven, but then so are Cesar’s. 

The fact that many trainers do use choke, prong and shock collars in their training, in my opinion, serves as at least an endorsement of their reliability. But as stated in my previous post on choke collars, a professional’s skill and experience are what limits the potential for psychological or physical harm. What you have to decide as an owner is if you can emulate their technique and master the same level of patience Victoria manages before using one of these dog training devices. 

When I mention emulating the pros, I want you to focus on quick, timely correction followed by quick, timely neutrality followed, ultimately, by praise and reward. In the case of choke and prong collars, your objective is a quick, sharp snap of the lead, NOT a brutal jerk on the leash. This is the correction element and it should happen the moment your dog initiates the unwanted behavior. 

Learn to recognize the triggers that lead to the bad behavior and anticipate that you may time the correction well. Aggressive posturing, tension of the body or rigid dominance stances are just some of the clues you are looking for. The instant you see such behavior, snap the lead and include a verbal queue. Cesar makes a short, sharp hiss like “HSSST!” Victoria’s audible queue of choice as a loud, clipped “AH AH!” Both help enforce the physical correction of the collar and will help you gradually transition away from a dog training collar as your voice alone will serve as an effective correction.   

Next, regardless what type of collar you use, immediately stop the correction when the behavior has been modified. Don’t depend on a long pull on the leash or drag your dog away. Focus on short, sharp corrections. If the behavior continues, give another short, sharp correction. Keep doing so until you see the behavior you desire. 

Finally, when your dog begins to show signs he’s “getting it,” be sure to reward. Some will argue the benefits of food rewards vs. affection rewards but it’s entirely up to you and either is fine depending on your dog’s response. I, for example, own two rescues. One loves praise and affection. The other is much more staid and, while appreciative of affection when we’re playing, responds far better to food rewards when we are training. Use what works, just remember the sequence; Correct, neutrally observe for improved behavior, reward. 

To paraphrase the Dog Whisperer, in a dog’s world there are either leaders or followers. Nobody is a neutral party. If you aren’t assuming the role of a leader then you are your dog’s follower (in his eyes). It is your job to be your dog’s leader and give him the rules to follow. If you fail to do this you risk your happiness, your dog’s happiness, your family’s happiness and very well might lose the dog should he ever bite somebody. You can be pals when it’s play time. The rest of the time, remember who the boss HAS to be.

Thanks to a comment by a reader who clearly may have missed my repeated disclaimer that I don’t recommend collars, just review them and try to inform, I’m going to repeat that you must decide for yourself if any collar covered by the Dog Training Collars Guide is right for you. In ALL cases, you must use these tools correctly. Collars don’t train your dog but to open up opportunities for YOU to train them. Most (all) carry the potential to do physical or mental harm if not used properly and attentively. For the post addressing the commenter who wants nothing to do with Gentle Leaders, please visit our response titled A Criticism for Every Collar.

In a big departure from our previous posts on Shock Collars, Prong Collars and Choke Collars, we’re now going to discuss the “gentle” alternatives; head harnesses. Where the earlier offerings work by negative reinforcement best described as painful or uncomfortable, head harnesses such as Premier’s Gentle Leader function mostly by annoyance and by taking advantage of canine psychology.

A dog wants to look where it’s going and go where it’s looking. Head harnesses take advantage of that by steering a dog from its intended target. For example, if a dog tries to move ahead of its owner, the Gentle Leader will turn the dog’s head to the left or right (depending on which side the leash hangs).

The effect is almost comical (my own dog’s expression of annoyance was priceless) but extremely effective. Simply put, a dog would rather walk gently than have her head turned every time she tries to pull.

Though different models of head harnesses vary slightly in their function (some pull a dog’s head down, others to the side) the premise is the same which is to “turn” the dog’s head in some way. Again, effective, but is there a down side? Well, there are a few things worth mentioning.

The first thing you’ll likely experience with a dog training collar like the Gentle Leader is that your dog won’t like it. Mine each bucked like colts and pawed at their faces to remove the things but I didn’t cave and gave them repeated, sharp NO’s until they behaved. It was hard to keep a straight face, though, because they looked terribly cute trying to get the things off.

The second thing to note is that fit is extremely important for training harnesses like the Gentle Leader. My purchase came with a DVD which I watched from beginning to end and I suggest you do the same. Pay particular attention to the segments on fit and on use. This is critical.

Third, despite offering a gentler approach, head harnesses do carry risk of neck injury should a dog charge full speed to the end of the leash and get his head yanked around. With that in mind, it is important that you use these training harnesses only for training and don’t become dependent on them as everyday collars. Certainly never leave one on your dog unattended. Also remain extremely attentive at all times.

Fourth, make sure you constantly check to ensure the collar isn’t touching your dog’s eyes. Some breeds have heads that don’t accommodate a Gentle Leader well and, particularly if poorly fit, can result in part of the halter rubbing the dog’s eyes. If you notice that happening, IMMEDIATELY discontinue use.

So with the negatives out of the way, here are the positives. These things work and they work in a way that’s more readily embraced by pet lovers. As with any collar, though, the training collar you opt for is a tool, not a crutch and should be used in concert with positive reinforcement efforts and an eye on their eventual removal from everyday walks.

For my part, the Gentle Leader was a fantastic dog training addition and I’m definitely a fan. Simply put, of all the collars I’ve tried, the Gentle Leader provided the quickest results in the most pet-friendly manner at a reasonable price. Friends of mine make equally favorable statements about the Halti. There’s an inclination for either collar to fall into disuse, however, as it’s something that has to be put on and taken off before and after each walk. A buckle collar, on the other hand, can remain on. Still, for particularly stubborn dogs who are constantly trying to reassert their walking dominance, the Gentle Leader and other models of head harness are certainly handy when used in conjunction with other techniques.

The premise at the heart of shock collars is the same as at the heart of our previous two offerings, prong collars and choke collars. All three should be used for conditioning only, not as your dog’s permanent collar. Once the desired objective is achieved you should return to using a regular buckle collar. 

Shock collars work by…, well it’s right there in the name, folks. When your dog is behaving in a manner you are trying to break, he gets shocked. But not right away. Used as intended, Remote collars first provide a warning by either vibrating or buzzing, emitting an audible tone or providing a mild current which grows in intensity until ultimately, if corrected behavior is not achieved, delivering the conditioning shock. The intended shock should deliver more of a scare than pain. That said, it is enough of a jolt to really get your dog’s attention and might well result in a surprised yelp. 

Advocates of remote collars point out that their benefits are no “real” physical damage and the ability to “reach out” even when your dog is some distance from you. Detractors will never be convinced that shock collars aren’t cruel and will, with good reason, point to their ability to mentally damage a dog which is already frail, shy or prone to low self-esteem. Advocates will counter that this is an issue of misuse, not a flaw in the device.

I’m updating this post to elaborate on a couple concerns I either didn’t point out or emphasize to my satisfaction. The convenience of a remote means correcting your dog has the ugly downside of also potentially confusing and harming your pet emotionally. Think of your own potential for lost confidence and increased fear if, everytime you did something you thought was ok, a bolt of lightening flashed out of the sky and gave you a good zap. Sure, you might learn not to do that thing anymore, but you might also find yourself in a constant state of fear waiting for the next punishing blow to come for something you were doing. Detractors have a very good point when they emphasize the risks associated with shock collars potentially ruining a dogs confidence.

In addition, remotely correcting your pet removes you from the equation and that’s missing the point a bit. You and your dog need to live together harmoniously. While there is debate about whether a dog accepts a human as the “alpha” pack member or not, there is no question that a dog is capable of accepting your alpha role. If you’re nowhere around when a correction is delivered, your pet won’t associate you with the correction and you’ve lost the advantage of training your dog to respect your boundaries. Instead, he is simply learning that doing X results in pain.

Another point I didn’t mention is that some remote collars come with setting options that are simply, in my opinion, cruel. That is to say, the shock delivery can be cranked to such a high level on some collars to  represent, in my opinion, blatant abuse. If you have tried everything else and still insist on a shock collar, I recommend you try a little experiment (NOT FOR THOSE WITH HEART CONDITIONS OR PACE MAKERS. DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK. MAY CAUSE SIGNIFICANT PAIN). Wrap the collar around your bare leg and, starting with the lowest setting, give yourself a zap. Increase intensity from there. When you find yourself thinking, “ok, that HURTS,” consider your dog will feel the same.

So am I against dog collars? No. And though I’ll repeat it again later, my objective in this blog is neither to endorse nor dissuade you from any reasonable training device. My intent is to inform you about all aspects (and there are good and bad to any of the options available depending on your frame of reference) in an effort to assist you in making an intelligent decision that fits your needs.

My personal thinking is that there are dogs which can definitely benefit from the use of a shock collar when its use is well understood, limited only to training and managed by an even tempered, loving pet owner who wants to condition, not hurt, their pet. Zapping Fido every time he gets on your nerves and for every little infraction is NOT the intended use. If that’s your intention then I’d like to suggest you wear one for a few weeks around your husband or wife and give them an open door policy to zap you at any level and anytime you get on their nerves. See how you like it. Ladies, this might be a way you can finally get your man to leave the toilet seat down. My wife is seriously considering doing this to me. 

Used appropriately by an individual who truly understands canine behavior, their dog’s motives and the proper use of these devices, shock collars may serve well as dog training collars. To that end, my recommendation is that if you’d like to purchase a shock collar, you also purchase a book on canine behavior. That and read the collar’s instructions and recommended use at least twice.

Also important to remember when using a shock collar is that the device should not serve two roles. Shock collars have metal prongs which allow the shock to penetrate the dog’s fur. If you attach a leash to a shock collar and your dog jerks on the leash, those prongs can pierce or, at the very least, bruise the skin under your dog’s fur. If you opt for a shock collar, you will also need a standard buckle collar to which your dog’s leash will attach.

When it comes to dog training collars, shock collars really serve as a devisive split between old school training and modern training. Modernists focus on canine psychology and positive reinforcement to the exclusion of all else. I find myself sometimes straddling the fence because I know full well that when one dog tries to explain something to another dog, he may use negative actions to get his point across by snarling, snapping, biting, mouthing or charging. With that in mind, I am not against the use of shock collars as a training tool when the situatio warrants. But…

I also take the lesson from dogs that they don’t tend to hold grudges. Humans are far less forgiving and far more prone to vindictive actions. Even a well intentioned but impatient owner might find himself inclined to hit that button one more time to get the darn point across or to crank the intensity setting higher than required for training purposes. It doesn’t work that way, folks, and you won’t be doing your dog or your karma any good. If you have a quick temper I would strongly recommend staying away from shock collars as a dog training tool.

If you are a patient and loving dog owner with a problem dog and you have the patience to truly work with your pet, then I won’t recommend against using a shock collar strictly for training and nothing else. Please don’t take this post as an endorsement or condemnation of shock collars. You’ll have to decide for yourself if that’s the route you want to go. My objective here is simply to ensure that, whatever choices you make, you make them responsibly. For those who have emailed me and asked, no. I do not use a shock collar on my own dogs but, then, they aren’t problem dogs.

Prong collars work by applying pressure not unlike the method employed by choke collars. However, unlike choke collars the pressure points are the prongs rather than the entire chain. The theory behind this device is that the application of pressure via the prongs is more effective than the more distributed pressure applied by a full chain. Further, some allege that the prongs simulate a mother dog’s grip on a pup’s neck, thereby establishing a dominant stimulus resulting in a more submissive response from the problem dog. 

For my part, that last is bunk. A prong collar, I feel, works simply because it is uncomfortable when a dog pulls. Can it be effective? Used properly the prong collar can be a very effective tool. The only question you have to ask is if you want to use it. 

Despite having the most barbaric look of the bunch, prong collars pose less of a health risk than choke collars which are too easily misused. If you came here after investigating prong collars on other sites, you might have seen an oft-cited German study claiming that 100 dogs, 50 of which were walked with choke collars and 50 of which were walked with prong collars were subsequently autopsied on dying. 

It is further claimed the study revealed that 48 of the dogs walked on choke collars had suffered trauma while only 2 of the dogs walked on prong collars suffered any trauma. As encouraging as that news may be, I have yet to find the actual study to back up the claim. Instead, I just keep finding repeated quoting in typical internet fashion with nothing to back it up. Remember, folks, just because you read it on the internet doesn’t make it true. 

Regardless the lack of support for that “study,” my own experience has shown that prong collars, while not as dangerous as choke collars, work by causing pain and can actually do significant harm to a dog’s confidence if they are already shy. As such, if you elect to use this type of dog training collar, ensure you ONLY use it for training and not as your dog’s permanent walking collar. Read all included literature to ensure you are using the collar correctly. 

One last thing on these collars… do not slip them over your dog’s head to put them on or take them off. Prong collars are removed by taking out a link in the same way you might remove a link from a chain of paper clips. Should you attempt to simply slide the collar over your dog’s head, you run the very real risk of damaging his eyes should he suddenly turn his head.

Of the more prolific dog training collars on the market today, choke collars have long been relied on by the training community where they are more commonly called correction or constriction collars. These collars are the classic chain-loop readily available in most pet stores. They also come in nylon varieties. While they may be declining in popularity with man modern trainers, their use by owners has not seen a notable corresponding decline.

The unfortunate thing about choke collars is that their intended method of use is rarely adhered to by even well intentioned dog owners who would never knowingly harm their beloved pets. A choke collar is intended to produce quick, “corrective” discomfort during undesirable behavior and then quickly release when the undesirable behavior ceases. Critical to that process are fit, the correct application of the collar and correct use by the owner.  For something so simple in appearance, the choke collar is actually one of the more complicated to use correctly and safely.

Fit is very important with these collars. To size correctly, measure your dog’s neck with a string and ensure your choke collar is no more than 2-3 inches larger. Not only does too large a collar run the risk of slipping but the extra length of chain can result in far too strong a correction which may result in injury.

In addition, a choke collar must be put on correctly. Failure to place the collar correctly (by flipping the live and dead rings or allowing the rings to slip below the neck) can result in the collar not releasing pressure when positive results have been achieved. Training an animal requires both a negative (or undesirable) result followed by a positive reinforcing result. If the collar does not release pressure, no positive reinforcing signal is given for improved behavior.

As mentioned, incorrect use by the owner is another downside to choke collars. Owners may snap the lead too hard, not release quickly enough to provide positive reinforcement for good behavior or maintain pressure on the collar in a constant choke during the walk. Whatever positive benefits this type of dog training collar may impart are completely voided when used improperly.

The important thing to remember is that, as dog training collars go, choke collars can be effective tools, but their seeming simplicity is an illusion. Even experienced owners can and have caused injury to their dogs by improperly using choke collars. I will provide surprising results to support that statement in a subsequent post. Though I won’t recommend against choke collars as a training tool, I won’t recommend in favor of them either. If you decide to use this tool, remember that you must be well versed in its proper use to ensure the safety of your dog.

 Welcome to the Dog Training Collars Guide! This blog was inspired by the frequent questions asked of me by friends and family who are familiar with my past experience as an animal trainer. Though my career has long since headed in another direction, I’m still regularly asked questions relating to pet care, health and training and there are a few questions that come up again and again. 

Some of the more commonly recurring questions I receive center around problem behaviors in dogs and how best to correct those bad habits. While there are varying training methods for different behavioral problems, I felt it would be convenient to deal with the most frequent complaints here; pulling at the end of the leash or lunging. 

It is important to note that dog training collars are only one link in the chain to corrective behavior. We’ll touch on other elements such as positive reinforcement and understanding the motives behind your dog’s behavior but our focus here will be primarily on the physical tools central to accomplishing your goal of behavior modification; namely, dog training collars. 

In future posts I’ll discuss each type of collar, their objectives, effectiveness and most importantly, their proper use.  Please note that, unless specifically stated, I am not advocating one type or brand over another. I do have my own preferences and I’m sure that will come through in my writing but simply because I endorse one type of collar does not mean you should discount other options and follow my lead. 

Different breeds, temperaments, sizes and the severity of your dog’s unwanted behavior should all play a part in your decision when it comes to purchasing a dog training collar. Likewise, your own tastes will be a factor. For example, some folks will never be convinced that a choke collar is anything other than cruel and, regardless what I say, would never consider using one to train their dog. That’s fine and if you are in that camp, you are certainly entitled to your feelings. I will, therefore, offer plenty alternatives of which at least one will hopefully suit your particular needs and serve as a good fit (pardon the pun) for both you and your dog. 

I hope you’ll stop by soon to catch our first product review and, please, don’t hesitate to ask questions. Remember, at the end of the day your relationship with your dog is the most important motivation for this blog. A well behaved pet will be a much enjoyed pet and will result in a more satisfying relationship for both owner and pooch.